Being in Bali Part 2 | Notes on Canggu

Spending two months in Canggu and Pererenan felt like experiencing a raw and different side of Bali- an ever-changing contradiction of old and new. One that ultimately exposed me to the realities of the rapidly evolving island.
 
I must admit that my time in Canggu and Pererenan was the hardest of my experience living in Bali as I had gone from being in a warm, friendly, calming community to a fast, crazy, and unfriendly Canggu. Ubud felt like a warm hug, and Canggu felt like a cold rock. It felt almost impossible to meet new people in Canggu and Pererenan, so ultimately, we made #nonewfriends. Luckily, on fortuitous occasions, we met a few ex-Shanghai expats as well as friends who had come to Bali on vacation.
 
Canggu also has a city beach vibe and is presently the most "modern" and expensive place in Bali. Pererenan, which is next to Canggu, is the much smaller, 'quieter' alternative to Canggu. The streets in these areas are bustling and lack sidewalks, making it risky to navigate on foot as cars and bikes recklessly zoom past. Because of this, either rented scooters or ride-hailing services like Grab will become your lifeline to get around. The street, Batu Bolong is a rare exception, as one can walk along the sidewalks of the bustling streets, checking out the shops and restaurants along the way.

ACTIVITIES
 
Beach Clubs

Canggu is famous for its beach clubs and sunset bars. While beach clubs aren’t quite my scene, I embraced the Canggu experience and visited venues like La Brisa and The Lawn. La Brisa beach club was more intriguing with its unique architectural design and the Farmer's Day Sunday market that took place- every Sunday. While the food and the beach itself didn't quite meet my expectations, the overall ambiance and the market added an interesting touch to the experience.

Surreal Sunsets

While the beaches in the Canggu and Pererenan may not be the typical tropical island aesthetic, the spectacular sunsets make up for this, and I found myself captivated by the ever-changing palette of vivid colors that slowly glided across the sky. Each sunset took my breath away and I embraced those perfect moments as a reminder to keep my eyes to the sky, being grateful for its natural beauty that remains unchanged on the ever-developing island of Bali.

The Medium is an art gallery that hosts works from Bali based artists, and finding this fantastically designed space was a highlight of my time in Canggu. Their opening events are trendy, chic and if you're lucky, you just might meet new people!
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Embrace the Fitness Culture

Canggu and Pererenan have embraced a vibrant fitness culture, offering numerous options for staying active. From gyms like F45 to outdoor alternatives like group beach runs and cycling, there's something for everyone. There is also an obvious obsession with playing padel, and the padel courts are usually booked every day, all day into night. Surfing, a quintessential Bali activity, is easily accessible at nearby beaches. I preferred attending Pilates reformer sessions and HIIT boot camps at Revive +. Yoga, wellness activities, and aesthetic services like laser hair removal and facials are also readily available.
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Storytelling

I was excited and pleasantly surprised to find Unravel Storytelling (a Shanghai-born event) in Bali! It was brought over from Shanghai by the founder Clara, who had recently moved to Bali. Attending an Unravel Storytelling event at Deus Ex Machina’s Temple of Enthusiasm, was one of the highlights of my time in Canggu as it was the only time that I felt connected to the Canggu community- as I said, we made #nonewfriends. Be sure to follow them on Instagram if you’re interested in catching an event while in Canggu.

As an international style-seeker, one of my most enjoyable activities while exploring well-curated shops in new places. I had high hopes of finding nice boutiques in Canggu and Pererenan however, I did not find as many as I had thought I would. Luckily, I eventually discovered these three female-owned brands- Magali Pascal, LeeLoobird, and Myrah Penaloza, which had small boutiques with chic designs and visually elegant store concepts. I also discovered a shop called KOHEI, whose breezy designs are inspired by Tahiti as well as the shop Cove, a multi-band shop offering an island inspired selection. The restaurant Yemma also housed a boutique with carefully curated items from kitchenware to clothing, jewelry, and accessories inspired by travel.
 
Gastronomic Adventures

Restaurants are abundant in both Canggu and Pererenan and eating out became one of my favorite activities during our stay. Rent may have been high, but the food compensated for it, and with so many great options to choose from, I made the best of my stay!

Healthy vegan food is great, and Canggu and Pererenan are the places in Bali to go when you get tired of it!
 
Both areas boast a wide range of cuisines and restaurants reflecting the international melting pots that they have become. Meals are prepared with attention to detail and from quality produce. The interior of most of these venues is captivating in the design marrying perfectly with mouthwatering cuisine.
 
Here are my favorites:
 
1. Shelter, Pererenan: Undoubtedly, my top pick in all of Bali for dinner. For the food, the vibe, the chicness, the open kitchen, the music, and the attentive hosts. It is a sought-after restaurant in the area, and I understand why. The open-air design of the space is both sleek and cozy and exudes chic island vibes and patrons dress the part. Be sure to book a reservation in advance and prepare yourself for a positively memorable experience.

2. Roots, Pererenan: Co-founded by a fellow Shanghai ex-pat transplant, this restaurant offers the most amazing vegan menu complimented by equally impressive décor. The space exudes an inviting ambiance with lush greenery, blended with the appreciation of Balinese architecture, using repurposed wood from an old joglo, as the restaurant’s pillars and focal point. Don't miss their build-your-own bowl, which offers a wide variety of options and dressings. Go here if you want to partake in the tastiest vegetarian and vegan bowls you’ve ever had in life.

3. Front, Pererenan: Our favorite spot for having a rich breakfast in the morning, it’s a small café to the side of the street, hence the name “Front”. Think, pancakes, focaccia and scrambled eggs, and avocado toast, anything on the menu here is great.
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4. Baked, Pererenan: Another go-to breakfast option with, as you may have guessed, mouthwatering baked goods.

5. Acme, Pererenan: Another bakery that I highly recommend and my favorite place to grab a slice of carrot cake. If you are a lover of carrot cake, you’re welcome.

6. Woods, Pererenan: A grand Instagram-worthy restaurant, that merges nature with design. With trees growing from the middle of the floor and everything crafted from wood. This spot offers a delicious roast on Sundays and I highly recommend the roasted chicken which is one of the best I have ever had. One can also catch live music here at night but be sure to book in advance for meals or vibes.

7. HOME by Chef Wayan, Pererenan: One of our favorite places to dine while in Pererenan. This charming restaurant offers elevated Indonesian cuisine without the pretentious vibe. It is a place that feels like home. My favorite dish on the menu was fish soup, and I also grew to love Kombucha after trying the one served here.

8. Shady Shack, Canggu: A dreamy, Instagrammable vegan restaurant in Canggu where the ambiance is shack chic and filled with foliage and sunlight. It is a good place to relax, eat and people-watch. I highly recommend their lentil soup!
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9. Yemma Kitchen, Canggu: Another favorite that we frequented. I absolutely loved this restaurant for its food and ambiance. This restaurant offers Moroccan cuisine and felt like more than at a restaurant. The space consisted of open-air seating in different areas, a restaurant, a café, a well-curated boutique, a yard with pet rabbits, and a swimming pool. Yemma also hosts movie nights on Wednesday, which was a charming and romantic experience. 

10. La Baracca, Canggu:  Upbeat Italian restaurant owned by a friendly Italian family. It is worth a try at night if you’d like to dine with a vibe.
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11. Milk & Madu, Canggu: The Canggu location has also made my list. The vibe is different to Ubud, as it feels a bit more trendy and the wait is also a bit longer. It’s a perfect spot for brunch, baked goods and of course the pizza!

12. Cinta Café, Canggu: Open air café with a garden to the back, with tasty meals and baked goods. I’ve had the best tuna salad here and there is also live music on some evenings.

13. Sandwichopedia, Pererenan:  A very simple café with a very impressive list of scrumptious sandwich options.  If you are a fellow sandwich lover, you’re welcome. 

14. The Common, Canggu: The tacos at this café are flavorful and I highly recommend stopping by on their taco night to indulge fully in their Mexican-inspired varieties!

15. Penny Lane, Canggu: A beautiful Instagrammable restaurant with a unique interior.  Be sure to arrive looking cute because you'll definitely want to take pictures here! I guess they called it Penny Lane because of the obsession they seem to have with celebrities. I won’t show you many pictures here, just be sure to check it out if you are in Canggu. I’d recommend just having a drink here as the food is not as spectacular as their décor.

THINGS TO NOTE
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1. “Bali Belly” aka food poisoning runs rampant, I wish anyone the best of luck trying to avoid it! Be sure to walk with medication or charcoal tablets just in case you have the unfortunate run-in with Bali Belly and please see a doctor if the case persists for a few days! Do not drink tap water or cook or wash vegetables with tap water. Keeping hand sanitizer and tissues with you at all times may turn out to be a lifesaver. Many people also suggest staying away from raw foods like salads in Bali, even though in my experience, having a salad and raw food at a well-established restaurant is safe enough. I would, however, avoid eating at random local warungs.
2. Restaurants in Bali may have improved their menus and aesthetics, but the service is still lacking, and frankly, I don’t see that improving any time soon. Staff are poorly trained, inattentive, and seem unmotivated to work which sometimes creates an odd atmosphere. Although you'll be greeted with smiles, don't expect good service. Of course, there are exceptions, such as Roots where the service is outstanding (and they give free table water, which is rare in Bali).
3. Most restaurants in Bali do not have AC and it gets hot! Electric fans are typically used to cool the spaces, but I highly recommend purchasing a handmade fan from a local street market to stay comfortable.
4. Pepito is a supermarket with locations in both Canggu and Pererenan that offers an array of international products. One can also buy health food products like chia seeds, dried nuts, organic vegetables, gluten-free bread, and vegetarian meat alternatives at Bali Direct in Pererenan and online.
5. Canggu and Pererenan are bustling areas in Bali and unfortunately very highly polluted areas from land to sea and air. Consider doing your part by picking up any garbage you come across on the beach or joining local clean-up groups.
6. If you choose to rent a scooter in Bali, be sure to check the latest regulations. The most recent requirement is an international driver's license. Scooters are readily available for rent throughout Canggu, sometimes even from neighbors who may not prioritize adherence to rules, just the chance to earn money (which is typical in Bali). Most importantly WEAR A HELMET AT ALL TIMES. Tourist continue to die on the streets of Bali due to scooter accidents. Rented scooters come with helmets, but if you don’t like wearing random helmets, you can purchase one from a shop for about 10-15 USD.
7. Consider getting travel insurance if you plan on visiting a place like Bali.
8. If you use a ride-sharing app like Grab Bike, be sure to wear a helmet. I do not recommend using GoJek, especially as a woman. I have heard TOO MANY stories about women being harassed, and stalked by drivers of this app. Be careful, and women have been advised to dress modestly and avoid wearing a swimsuit while on these bikes (for your safety and respect for the culture).
9. Canggu has become a more international city, however, visitors should keep in mind that Bali is a highly religious island, and showing respect in dress, tolerance, and behavior is advised.
   

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• Our Bali vintage find!
  

Even though I occasionally retreated to the hills of Ubud to reconnect and just be, I continually reminded myself that it's okay to not be completely in love with a place- because sometimes contrasts, and challenges shape us as travelers into becoming our best selves!
 
Stay tuned for Part Three of Being in Bali and be sure to check out a lot more details of my Bali stay on my Instagram Highlights @baglady_basics

XX
Shanya